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Khash ԽԱՇ


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Նանե, աչքիս համոզելու ես... ;)

 

Ան ջան, համոզելու բան չկա ... դու էլ չես հասկանա թե օրերից մի օր ինչպես հայտնվեցիր խաշի սեղանի շուրջ, 3 մատով թաթախված (ավել պետք չի): ;)

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  • 2 years later...

KHASH KINGS and QUEEN

 

 

http://www.armenianow.com/features/29353/traditional_armenian_cuisine_khash_echmiadzin

 

Sunday morning Khash Time. Ummm ! I can smell all the way here. :P

Garlic/Skhtor/ՍԽՏՈՐ

 

http://aboutgardening.files.wordpress.com/2008/06/garlicharvest.jpg

 

The Queen of Khash Hasmik Makaryan learned khash business niceties from her mother-in-law

 

http://www.armenianow.com/sites/default/files/img/imagecache/600x400/khash-preparation.jpg

 

 

The Vardanyans’ clients are not only from Armenia, but also from the United States, the Netherlands, France, and Germany.

 

Flavored district: the fame of khash made by Vardanyan brothers is known far beyond Echmiadzin

 

NAZIK ARMENAKYAN

ArmeniaNow

Hasmik Makaryan learned khash business niceties from her mother-in-law

By Gayane Mkrtchyan

ArmeniaNow reporter

The young man skillfully removes the lower legs of a cow from the boiling water of a huge copper pot, and immediately puts them into cold water. Then he starts cleaning the rough hide of the hooves. His hands, unlike the fated cow feet, are used to the hot water, used to the cold water, and the ritual that defines his life as a maker of Khash.

“I clean 50-60 hooves per day. It is only morning, but I have already managed to clean 10 pairs, that is to say, 40 feet” says Karen Hakobyan, who works in the “Khash District” of Echmiadzin. Khash is an Armenian national dish of boiled tripe and the lower parts of cow legs/feet, it is traditionally served with dry lavash, garlic, greens, vodka, salty vegetables, radish. It is, too, traditionally served in the coldest part of winter. On this unusual street in Echimiadzin, however, the dish is a year-round specialty. Since the 1990s, the seven families of Vardanyan brothers who reside in 154 Mashtots Street are the initiators of this business that has become something of a tradition. In the town, it is well known as “khash district”. Hasmik Makaryan, 53, wife of one of Vardanyan brothers (Arayik Vardanyan), says that her mother-in-law started their business, and later they – the daughters-in-law and their husbands continued it. “This is how we earn money. We have all got education, but we needed to live, to survive somehow, therefore we started this khash business. People were telling our address so often that as a result the name of our district has become ‘Khashi Tagh’,” Hasmik says. The brothers’ houses are next to each other. If Arayik does not have the product a client wants, then he sends him or her to Vardan’s house, and if Vardan does not have it, then – to Rafik’s house, and so on. “Our work consists of several ‘operations’. The first one starts in a bathroom, where cow’s feet are cleaned of the fibrous skin,” Hasmik explains, passing a pair of legs to Karen. The resulting smell is not for the faint, and it leaves the bathroom and enters the whole yard. The Vardanyans don’t even notice anymore. Even though the number of khash eaters essentially drops in summer and spring, the work in ‘Khashi Tagh’ does not stop. The cleaned and assorted khash bits are stored in refrigerators in anticipation of the winter season. Hasmik’s son – 22-year-old Armen uses a razor to get the toughest bit of hide from the cow leg. “We represent ‘The Vardanyans Group’, you may even search us through Google and you will find us as the best khash cleaners,” Armen says joking, putting the next clean product aside. The Vardanyans’ clients are not only from Armenia, but also from the United States, the Netherlands, France, and Germany. “All restaurant owners from Proshyan Street [a well-known street in Yerevan famous for its restaurants, where Armenian barbeque and khash are served], take khash legs from us. The khash served on the top of Mount Aragats is also ours,” Hasmik says proudly. Specialists in khash are guarded while talking about incomes and expenses. They say that their torment and bad smell prevails over their income. They buy cow legs from butchers, the prices range from 1,000 to 5,000 ($2.7-$13) drams each, depending on the size and quality. Hasmik explains that the family business has reached the point of being able to become more involved in distribution and marketing of their khash ingredients. She also favors seeing khash become a year-round “delicacy”. “People prefer buying khash in May. Besides, in summer when they climb mountains [where it is cold enough for eating khash] to eat khash there, they take khash with them. When we ourselves go to Sevan in summer, we take khash with us to eat it there early in the morning, when it is very cold there. It is a special pleasure. Very often people, sitting at next tables, leave their barbeque and join us to enjoy khash with us,” Hasmik says. People in ‘Khashi Tagh’ say that along with general food price hikes, no rise in khash price has been registered, it is comparatively the cheapest dish now; and people’s purchasing capacity has not drop. “We do not complain about it, our business is good, there is enough demand, and if we calculate now, we will see that khash remains to be the cheapest dish,” Hasmik says, receiving their next client.

Edited by Arpa
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hate khash........ eww

the only Armenian kind of food that I truly can't stand...and the smell!!!!!!!! :wacko:

 

Drum roll please!!

Tam tara tam tam tam tam!

 

 

Dear Nvard . Since you are such a fan of Khash, and you being the one millionth participant, you win a Gift Certificate for two at the above Khashnaran in Ejmiatsin. :P :D

For two?

One for you, and one for your nose. :goof:

 

http://shop.realmaplesyrup.com/images/gift_certificate.gif

 

 

I just contacted the owners of the restaurant and requested that they add two more cloves of garlic to your dish. :jester: :) :P

 

Of course. I'm sure you know that I am just playing. Look at all the smileys above.

But, should you insist you will end up with "aveluk/մնացորդ/leftovers". :P

Like this-

 

http://www.spam.com/ASSETS/0EE75B480E5B450F807117E06219CDA6/spamReg.png

Edited by Arpa
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Drum roll please!!

Tam tara tam tam tam tam!

 

 

Dear Nvard . Since you are such a fan of Khash, and you being the one millionth participant, you win a Gift Certificate for two at the above Khashnaran in Ejmiatsin. :P :D

For two?

One for you, and one for your nose. :goof:

 

http://shop.realmaplesyrup.com/images/gift_certificate.gif

 

 

I just contacted the owners of the restaurant and requested that they add two more cloves of garlic to your dish. :jester: :) :P

 

Of course. I'm sure you know that I am just playing. Look at all the smileys above.

But, should you insist you will end up with "aveluk/մնացորդ/leftovers". :P

Like this-

 

http://www.spam.com/ASSETS/0EE75B480E5B450F807117E06219CDA6/spamReg.png

 

I think I hate you more than I hate xash now......... :P

One for me and one for my nose? don't you ever say anything about my Romanian nose :P

And, btw, do they surve egg'n'tomatoes? It's lunch time I'm super hungry..

Edited by Nvard
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  • 8 months later...

:silly:

http://www.armenianow.com/hy

 

http://www.armenianow.com/sites/default/files/img/imagecache/600x400/winter-season-khash-yerevan-armenia.jpg

 

http://www.armenianow.com/sites/default/files/img/imagecache/600x400/winter-season-khash-yerevan-armenia.jpg

 

Sign of the Season-The sign in the window advertises khash. But the post-New Year weather is not cooperating with the season, offering mild temps instead of the usual winter bitterness that is warmed by cow-foot soup** and vodka. Mid afternoon in Yerevan: 10C/50F

 

Խաշի սեզո-ն:Չնայած ցուցանակին` հետամանորյա եղանակն ամենևին չի հիշեցնում սառնաշունչ ձմեռ, որի ժամանակ տաքանալու լավագույն միջոցներից են խաշն ու օղին: Երևանում կեսօրին ջերմաստիճանը +10 C է

 

Խաշի սեզո-ն???

The “sezo” of khash??

Who is that “sezo”?? He looks like Kocharian. :P Is it Rubo, Sipo, Edo ,Mosso or Arpo???

Anyone in Yerevan still espik armianski/americanski???

** http://www.footandmouthdiseaseinfo.org/CMImages/FMDInfo/Cow%20Hoof.jpg

Edited by Arpa
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  • 6 years later...
The Smithsonian Magazine
Feb 27 2018
A Brief History of Khash, Armenia’s Love-It-or-Hate-It Hangover Cure (Recipe) Cow foot soup: It’s what’s for breakfast istock-177802386.jpgKhash (iStock / Radist)
By Benjamin Kemper
smithsonian.com
February 27, 2018 3:28PM
recipe for the Armenian soup called khash, at its most basic, goes something like this: Simmer cows’ hooves overnight. Serve.

Gelatinous beef trotters—flavored tableside with sinus-clearing add-ins like lemon, salt, vinegar and raw garlic—may sound like the last thing you’d reach for when nursing a hangover, but Armenians swear by khash’s panacean powers, particularly in the winter, when it’s customarily eaten. Across the small Caucasus nation, friends gather for morning-after khash feasts complete with ritualistic toasts and—as Anthony Bourdain discovered while shooting a Parts Unknown episode set to air in March—punishing hair-of-the-dog vodka shots.

Offal soups are quintessential hangover fare across many cultures, from Mexican menudo rojo to Albanian paçe to Korean haejangguk, but none, perhaps, is as much of an event as Armenian khash. “Khash parties are all-day affairs,” said Samvel Hovhannisyan, owner of Bureaucrat Café and Bookstore in Yerevan. “After you’ve eaten the soup in the morning and made the accompanying toasts—to the day, to the cooks, and to the guests, in that order—you drink and sing and dance like crazy. When people get hungry again, you might have a barbecue, followed by coffee and tea and sweets.”

Even the soup’s preparation is a production. The hooves must be plucked meticulously of any stray hairs and soaked in water for a day to remove impurities and funky odors. Then comes the cooking, an eight-hour simmer requiring hourly check-ins, lest the pot dry out. Khash-fueled breakfasts start around 9 a.m., which means cooks often literally lose sleep over the dish. “It’s a sacrifice,” said Hovhannisyan. “That’s why the toast to the cook is so important.”

For the broth to remain white and nearly transparent, the mark of a well-made khash, Armenian cooks don’t add salt to the pot during cooking: It’s up to the end user how much salt and other traditional flavorings to mix into the finished soup. Armenians are known to add up to eight cloves’ worth of garlic to each portion. Two types of lavash, or flatbread, always grace the table: dry, for crumbling into the broth, and fresh, for draping over the bowl to seal in the heat. Purists, like Hovhannisyan, insist that fresh lavash—torn and folded for easy scooping—is the only acceptable utensil for eating khash, and that vodka, never wine or beer, is its only worthy sidekick.

Though khash is an ancient dish, mentioned in medieval Armenian texts as early as the 12th century, the ceremonial fanfare surrounding it appears to be a relatively recent phenomenon. “We haven’t found evidence that today’s khash rituals—the vodka drinking, the three toasts, the specific serving elements—were widespread or well-established before the Soviets arrived,” said Ruzanna Tsaturyan, a researcher for Armenia’s National Academy of Sciences at the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnography, adding that the few historical references that do exist characterize khash as wedding food.

That khash culture stems from ancient wedding traditions is one of many theories—and folktales. According to Hovhannisyan, some locals recount that a king popularized the dish after tasting it on a junket through the countryside, while others contend that the poor created khash out of necessity as the better cuts of meat were reserved for the rich.

Traditionally, khash feasting was limited to men, who also presided over the soup’s preparation—a rarity in a region with a female-dominated culinary tradition. The soup’s pungent aromas, and its accompanying troughs of vodka, were once deemed unfit for women. Further, men and women historically ate separately in Armenia, so given khash’s ancient roots, it’s no surprise that the division persisted. But recently the gendered perception of khash has changed. “Ten years ago, it was difficult to imagine groups of women having khash for dinner at a restaurant,” Tsaturyan said. “Today, no one would be surprised at such a scene, though women drinking straight vodka—that’s still fairly rare.”

In current-day Armenia, khash lovers are young and old, rich and poor. But in a country where nearly one-third of the population lives in poverty, it goes without saying that not everyone has the means to throw elaborate feasts. “Khash is more commercialized than ever, and khash parties have an air of prestige to them nowadays that was missing before,” Tsaturyan said. Call it culinary gentrification.

Travelers to the country can try a bowl at Tavern Yerevan, Tsaturyan’s favorite khash spot, which ladles out hefty, steaming portions for approximately $4.15. But for an idyllic khash experience that you can relish almost anywhere, heed Hovhannisyan’s advice: “Find a cabin next to a snowy mountain in the dead of winter, make a big pot of khash, and devour it with your best friends. You can’t go wrong.”

* * *

Samvel Hovhannisyan’s Khash Recipe

Serves 6-8

Khash can be made ahead through step three and refrigerated for up to four days. To reheat, simmer for 20 minutes.

Ingredients:

  • 3 cows’ feet (trotters), washed, patted dry, picked over for stray hairs and split in two

  • 30 cloves garlic, pounded in a mortar and pestle or minced and placed in a small bowl

  • Salt, to taste

  • Warmed flatbread, such as soft lavash or pita bread, for serving

  • Optional garnishes: Chopped parsley, chopped cilantro, sliced lemons, sliced radishes, sliced pickles, chopped fresh chiles

Cooking Instructions:

  1. On the morning of the day prior to your khash feast, place the trotters in a large bowl and cover with water. Refrigerate at least 10 and up to 48 hours, changing water every two hours or so for the first 10 hours.

  2. Place trotters in a heavy-bottomed pot and cover with 2 inches of water. Bring to boil over high heat. Regulate heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, uncovered, for 40 minutes.

  3. Drain water, return trotters to the pot, and cover with 2 inches of fresh water. Bring to boil over high heat, reduce to simmer, and cook, uncovered, for 6 to 8 hours, topping up water every hour or two, until trotters are soft and tender.

  4. Pour 2 cups of the hot broth into the mortar or small bowl with the garlic and stir to combine.

  5. Serve the remaining broth and meat immediately, passing salt, garlic mixture (Armenians recommend 4-6 cloves’ worth per person), and optional garnishes.

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/brief-history-khash-armenias-love-it-or-hate-it-hangover-cure-180968286/

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