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recent travels in historical Armenia


Boghos

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I am just back from a trip that took me to Ani, Istanbul, my grandfather's on my father's side hometown: Marash and Zeytoun.

 

I will be brief here and eventually return to the topic if there is interest from others and time allows.

 

Ani: first of it is worth noticing that a new airport will open in Kars in the next few months. I was on a direct flight from Istanbul that took 1h45m. At the foot of the castle there is an Armenian church still standing that has become a mosque. Charents house is nearby. Kars is a small city but there is a quite decent boutique hotel. Alcohol is hard to find in restaurants as it is the case in most cities in the interior. I drove to Ani after renting a car at the airport. One company, local. Ani is just under 70 km from Kars on a good road that is too wide to be of local use, clearly a strategic/military road, at least during the Cold War. A few modest Turkish military instalations on the way but no controls. On the way there is also a monument to Turks killed by Armenians in a village whose name I do not recall. Close to Kars there is a tiny village called Kozluca. A church and a chapel. The church is partially collapsed, the chapel is a barn...

Ani itself is what many of us know. There are sites and countless books. There is not a single sign mentioning Armenians. One needs at least 4-5 hours to visit the ruins. Not many people around but apparently the season has not begun. Animal graze freely and you'll find plenty of their feces...an unacceptable disrespect. Across the Arax you have Armenia. I heard dynamite and also the quarry has been significantly expanded. It is a sad and disappointing view.

 

Very little left of Armenian life in Marash. A few houses with Armenian inscription. My grandpa's house is still there. Empty. Not a single church.

 

In Zeytoun, outside Marash there is a famous fountain that undoubtedly had Armenian inscriptions now erased. The setting is amazing.

 

Istanbul: there are more than 30 churches and 16 schools still working. Saw a show of Onnig and Ara Dinkjian. Went to the Patriarchate. In some places you can but Marmara, Jamanag and Agos. There is a beautiful monthly magazine called Paros. Many other things as well but not for now.

 

A great sense of emptiness.

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Here some pictures. Notice the damage to the Armenian Cathedral caused by Turkish cannons. Also the quarry I mentioned on the Armenian side. On top of the entrance door to my family house there is an erased inscription...

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