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The Last Armenian Of Madras


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bbc: The mission of Dhaka´s last Armenian

Tarih: 23.1.2004

 

The church is a quiet haven in the noisy metropolis

Alastair Lawson

BBC Bangladesh correspondent

Once a thriving community in South Asia, the number of Armenians has

dwindled to such an extent that in the Bangladeshi capital Dhaka only one

man remains. He is known by his Anglicised name of Michael Joseph Martin.

Whatever happens, I'm determined not to let this church go to rack and ruin

Michael Joseph Martin

When Mr Martin, 73, dies, it will not only mark the end of an era, but will

throw into doubt the future of one of Dhaka's most beautiful churches.

Nestling in one of the busiest parts of Old Dhaka, Armenian Street used to

be a thriving business area, but its Armenian community has vanished.

Little evidence remains of its presence, even though centuries ago Armenians

were at the heart of Bengal's jute and leather trade.

Chronicle

But one prominent Armenian landmark does remain.

It is an 18th century church, described by visitors who explore it as a

haven amid the traffic chaos and crowded streets outside.

Yet its future is uncertain.

The caretaker Mr Martin, whose Armenian name is Mikel Housep Martirossian,

lovingly preserves the building against the ravages of the weather and

pollution.

Mr Martin tends the tombstones that chronicle Armenian life

He keeps the centuries-old births, deaths and marriages register and looks

after the ancient tombstones that chronicle the history of the Armenian

community in Bengal.

But when Mr Martin dies, there will be no more Armenians to look after the

church.

''Whatever happens I'm determined not to let this church go to rack and

ruin,'' he says.

''I may be the last resident Armenian in Bangladesh, but I will do

everything in my power to ensure that an Armenian from abroad takes over the

job I have been doing. Otherwise centuries of tradition will be disappear

overnight.''

Pirate deaths

The church's graveyard is like a giant history book, chronicling the history

of the Armenian people in the region.

Mr Martin tries to counter the ravages of weather and pollution

Armenians - like Bengalis - are renowned for their love of trading.

They are believed to have arrived in the region in the 12th century.

''This person died on the high seas, they were killed by pirates," says Mr

Martin, pointing at two gravestones that carry carvings of a skull and

crossbones.

''They were Armenians and their bodies were brought and buried over here in

1783.''

Pointing at another gravestone he says: ''This man's father married into the

British royal family, and he did the same thing. They had money and power,

and were also the biggest jute merchants in the country.

''But that couldn't stop their children from dying of diphtheria. In the

18th century even minor royals couldn't save the lives of the children.''

Busy location

The interior of the church is looking a little the worse for wear after

numerous robberies, but the central attractions - portraits of the

Crucifixion and the Last Supper - remain.

They are believed to have been done by a prominent European artist.

The church may be rooted in history, but it is located in one of the busiest

parts of the city.

Roads nearby are so crowded that services cannot be held during the working

week because the multi-denominational expatriate congregation would never

get there on time.

But even if it is no longer possible to hold regular services, Mr Martin

says the future of this valuable piece of history will be secured.

Until someone is found among the Armenian community abroad, he says he will

carry on as caretaker.

''While most Armenians have left Bangladesh, as the last to remain it's my

mission in life to make sure this relic from a bygone age will not be

allowed to disappear."

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Hovhannes Joughayetsi

 

1682-1693. Hovhannes Joughayetsi. Armenian merchant who traveled and traded between New Julfa (the Armenian suburb of Isfahan), Northern India and Tibet. He spent five years in Lhasa. His commercial ledger is a unique source of information on products, prices, trading conditions, and the Armenian commercial network on the seventeeth-century routes involving the Safavid and Mughal empires.

 

Hethoum and Kirakos Gandzaketsi

 

1254-1255. Hayton I (also, Hethum, Haithon) and Kirakos Gandsaketsi.

Primary sources:

 

 

E. Bretschneider, Mediaeval Researches from Eastern Asiatic Sources, Vol. I (NY: Barnes and Noble, 1967; repr. of 1888 ed.), pp. 164-172. A condensed version, in which the translator claims to have included everything of geographical interest. Largely a catalogue of place names.

Secondary sources:

 

Henry Yule and Henri Cordier, tr. and ed., Cathay and the Way Thither, Being a Collection of Medieval Notices of China, Vol. I (London, 1916; repr. ed., 1998), pp. 161-164. Note that the description of China translated from the "History of Hayton the Armenian (Written in 1307)" (pp. 258-259) and followed by the French and Latin texts is from the work by Hayton's nephew and is not the travel account.

 

Armenian community of Iran

 

One of his (Shah Abbas) great concerns was the promotion and control of the native Iranian silk industry, the trade being in the hands of important Armenian families who had been re-settled to a suburb of the Safavid capital. It is one of these Armenians, a man named Hohvannes, who left us a unique document of the Silk Road, his diary and account books encompassing his activity over many years on the routes from Safavid Iran through Mughal India and even up into Tibet.

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